Pune-based mountaineering group Giripremi makes history by climbing Mount Manda-1, first successful expedition from India – Punekar News

Pune, September 21, 2021: Dr Sumeet Mandale, Vivek Shivade and Pawan Hadole as well as Mingam Sherpa and Nim Dorje Sherpa wrote a new chapter in the history of Indian mountaineering by climbing Mount Manda-1, a mountain of 6,510 meters high in Uttarakhand. The youngest of the team Nikunj Shah was instrumental in supporting the success of the expedition.

This was the very first successful expedition to Mount Manda-1 from India and the only second successful expedition after the 1984 Japanese North Ridge Route expedition. The expedition was led by Anand Mali and mentored by Umesh Zirpe, a veteran mountaineer from Giripremi.

Mount Manda-1 is one of the three peaks of the Manda group located in the Kedar Ganga valley. It is one of the most difficult peaks in the Indian Himalayas and has rarely seen any rock climbing expeditions. Giripremi’s teams had attempted to climb the mountain in 1989 and 1991 but were unable to reach the top. After a long wait of 32 years, the young generation of climbers from Giripremi managed to climb the mountain after facing challenges such as rockfall, hard ice and snow coupled with crevasses and steep climbs. from 70 to 80 degrees above the altitude of 5000 meters above sea level.

The team reached the summit via the north ridge route which is considered a knife-edge route where climbing becomes difficult due to the narrow ledge at the top and steep slopes that descend into the valley. The Giripremi team has shown exemplary skills to meet the challenges and reach the top after more than three decades. Interestingly, climbers also paved tracks and mended ropes with Sherpas. It is a rare sight in the current trend of commercial and guided mountaineering expeditions.

Umesh Zirpe, the team’s mentor, who was at base camp overseeing the expedition, was jubilant after the successful climb. He was part of two failed attempts at Mount Manda-1 in 1989 and 1991. Climbing this elusive peak was one of his dreams that came true after 32 long years. He said, “Mt. Manda-1 is a tough mountain. He challenges the mountaineer at different levels. Reaching the summit of Mount Manda-1 marks the historic moment in Indian mountaineering history as the first successful ascent of this difficult northern ridge.

With Mount Manda-1, the Giripremi team made up of Anand Mali, Varun Bhagwat, Ruturaj Agawane, Ankit Sohoni and Rohan Desai climbed Mount Bhrigu Parvat (6041 M) on September 13, 2021. Coincidentally, the first ascent successful on Bhrigu Parvat was also by the Giripremi team 30 years ago. Both expeditions were successful thanks to the exceptional logistical support provided by White Magic Ltd.

The success of the Mount Manda-1 expedition was a remarkable feat achieved by the Giripremi as India celebrates its 75th anniversary of independence. It is a matter of honor for Giripremi to hoist the tricolor of India atop Mount Manda I during the 75th year of India’s independence. The team received praise from across the country.

“In 1989, I led the unsuccessful expedition to Mount Manda-1 and was part of another unsuccessful attempt in 1991. I understand the challenges that Mount Manda-1 has. In my opinion, Mount Manda-1 is as difficult as Mount Everest or Mount Kanchenjunga.

The unpredictable weather, steep climb, narrow ridge, uncertainty of rockfall, icefall and crevices make the climb difficult. It gives me immense joy to see the young climbers of Giripremi reach the summit of Mount Manda-1. The success of Mount Manda-1 is a pivotal moment in the history of mountaineering in India. This gives the mountaineers confidence to tackle the difficult challenges of the Indian Himalayas, ”Zirpe added.

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