new Austrian climbs in Kyrgyzstan

Last summer, an Austrian expedition consisting of Alex Blümel, Max Reiss, Manuel Steiger, Lisi Steurer, Roman Weilguny and Michael Zwölfer made the first ascent of three new ascents in Kyrgyzstan.

In August and September 2016, an Austrian expedition consisting of the young climbers Roman Weilguny (leader), Maximilian Reiss, Manuel Steiger and Michael Zwölfer and the two mountain guides Alex Blümel and Lisi Steurer successfully established three new ascents in the Kookshal massif Too in Kyrgyzstan, on the border with China.

The Austrians reached the Komorova Valley, east of the more famous Kyzyl Asker Valley, towards the end of August. After two days at base camp at 3800m, they acclimatized by climbing Pik Beggar (4720m), Pik Lyev (4710m) and Nameless Summit (4,963m), then established an advanced base camp on Pik Gronky (5080m).

On September 4, Manuel Steiger, Alex Blümel and Lisi Steurer climbed a line-up at Pik Gronky eastern buttress (800m, IV+, M5, 75°), while Reiss, Weilguny and Zwölfer attempted an ice corridor on the east face of the mountain. Due to the hollow ice they withdrew after two pitches, but during their descent noticed a possible rock climb on the right side of the face and climbed 150m, before descending to ABC in darkness .

On September 5, two teams set off in two different directions: Weilguny and Zwölfer climbed the steep north face of Pik Zuckerman (5,045 m) to make the first ascent of the Pizzeria Komorovan (600m, M4, 90°) in 14 hours of pushing, while Reiss and Alex Blümel completed the alignment of the East Face of Pik Gronky attempted the day before. One shot for a dollar climbs 350m of excellent granite beyond difficulties to 6b+, WI5, M6 and was climbed, like the previous two routes, with no added bolts. On September 6, the climbers returned to base camp and began the long journey back.

The expedition was the culmination of a two-year project launched in 2014 by the Austrian Mountaineering Club for aspiring mountaineers aged 18 to 24, mentored by mountain guides and experienced climbers such as Hansjörg Auer , Much Mayr, Hannes Leitner, and as in this case, Alex Blümel and Lisi Steurer.

Pik Gronky, Eastern Foothills (5080m), 800m, IV+, M5, 75° Manuel Steiger, Alexander Blümel, Lisi Steurer, 04/09/2016
East face of Pik Gronky, ‘One shot for a dollar‘ (6b+, WI5, M6, 350m Maximilian Reiss, Alexander Blümel, 05/09/2016
Pik Zuckerman (5045m) north face, ‘Pizzeria Komorova‘, Nordwand 600m, M4, 90° Roman Weilguny, Michael Zwölfer, 05/09/2016