Kiris Peak and a mountaineering adventure of yesteryear. By Maurizio Giordani

Italian mountaineer Maurizio Giordani recounts his climbing expedition in Pakistan during which, together with Massimo Faletti, he made a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall to Kiris Peak (5428 m). Other members of the expedition included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron, Nancy Paoletto, Giorgio Zeni, Luisa Boscheri, Andrea Marchel and Nadia Pezzi.

Goro Valley. Nancy and I have been at base camp for a few days now when the five new members of our expedition finally arrive, eager to leave. Their daring approach adventure along the Karakorum Highway, which lasted twenty-five times longer than our comfortable hour-long flight, gave them a taste of the unexpected, so common in these lands. I have already studied the face of Kiris Peak and with Nancy we have already climbed a simple summit of 4900m opposite, which we call “Besenello Peak”. Our friends need to acclimatize so I suggest a quick raid to the highest peak in the valley, Snow Peak, as we call this 5500m summit reached after 8 hours of walking, first through the moraine then into the The three best acclimatized are Nancy, Massimo and me. in the joy of placing crampons, mountaineering boots or climbing shoes where no human being has ever walked before.

The weather improved a few days ago and it looks like it’s going to hold up. It’s time to hit rock. There are five of us to climb (the women are watching from below) the first two lengths and that helps me get a clear idea of ​​what lies ahead. We are facing a real Big Wall, over 700 meters high. And are greeted by a hard and polished granite, vertical, compact, extremely difficult to climb. We anticipate the unexpected … waterfalls are everywhere. The snow high up on the summit and the heat of the sun, so strong at noon, melt the water at an alarming rate immediately after dawn (the wall is exposed to the NE and receives the sun until shortly after). midday). As the minutes turn into hours, the drops turn into real waterfalls tumbling down every crack, corner and exposed rock face.

The line of ascent is identified, the most logical and achievable, following a sheltered line of practicable rock formations under large overhangs, but the summit remains a huge question mark…. just like the bottom. A “day of rest” is obligatory before the decisive test, then Massimo, Manrico and I leave before dawn, to try to climb as high as possible.

We have ropes to secure the lower part where there are no comfortable bivouacs, and we certainly have no shortage of Friends, stakes and bolts to use when needed. Another day is devoted to trying to cross a few vertical sections before going back down to the base and bivouacing in our tent on the glacier.

The next morning, Manrico complains of headaches from lack of acclimatization; to the point that the weather has been stable for a week … we can’t push the luck too much and we just hope that the weather will hold up. We must take advantage of this opportunity that has been given to us. So Massimo and I left, determined to push to the top, and after two bivouacs necessary to cross the most difficult passages, after a well-covered bet along the crossing, a few mixed lengths, as many lengths on steep slopes snow up to 60 °, we reach the top. Altitude 5428 meters. The difficulties we had overcome to get here … many and not at all easy, via the 1000m + course.

The twin summit has two identical peaks only a hundred meters apart, and the panorama from up there is unique and irreplaceable. Thanks to the clear skies on our perfect day at the top, we get stunning views of Nanga Parbat, K2, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, K6, K7 and hundreds of other unnamed peaks, again. without mountaineering history, all possible small, big goals for that which, like us, wish to live real and authentic adventures in the middle of these high mountains. For the most part still unexplored.

by Maurizio Giordani

Thanks to: Karpos, SCARPA, Climbing Technology

This is an excerpt from the full trip report, available in Italian here